My training regimen for amateur-level gym climbing.
Background
Since I started climbing in August 2021, when I was 17, I've found through many experiments (and sometimes resulting injuries) that the best form of training for climbing is climbing itself, although that statement is nuanced. As most amateur gym climbers who don't go outdoors much (if at all) would do, I structure my training weekly. In my case, I've historically opted to climb nearly every day, so that limits the intensity with which I can train most days. Ideally, I'd also be doing flexibility work every day, but I've yet to form a lasting habit. Now, I'll describe in as much detail as I can my training regimen as a ranked list of what I find most effective, in hopes that 1) the more informed can point out my mistakes and 2) others can get a gauge for what amateur-level training might look like.
Weekly Training Plan
I've listed essentially every type of training day I might have. Note that because I climb nearly every day, I rarely, if ever, overlap these training days. Also, I'll have a maximum of two days/week for projecting (i.e., maximum-effort lead climbing and/or bouldering), and the rest will be some mix of onsighting and endurance work. However, you can probably mix days together if you have more time/day but fewer days/week, or simply do only what you have time for.
Daily: Stretching (~ 7-15 min)
- Butterfly: 10-30 sec, 2 sets, 1 min rest
- Straddle Split Stretch: 10-30 sec, 2 sets, 1 min rest
- 90-90: 10-30 sec, 2 sets, 1 min rest
- Wide-Legged Forward Fold: 10-30 sec, 2 sets, 1 min rest
- Lizard Stretch: 10-30 sec, 2 sets, 1 min rest
Projecting Day(s)
Lead (~ 1-1.5 hrs)
Warm-up on 3 progressively harder climbs (e.g., when projecting 5.13d, I might do 5.10d-11a, 5.11b-c, 5.11d-12a). Then attempt project(s) with a minimum of 15-30 min rest.
Bouldering (~ 1-1.5 hrs)
Warm-up on 8-10 progressively harder or similar difficulty boulders (e.g., when projecting V11, I might do one of each of V0-8). Then attempt project(s) with a minimum of 5-15 min rest.
Onsighting Day(s)
Lead (~ 1.5-2 hrs)
Warm-up on 3 progressively harder climbs (e.g., when onsighting 5.13a, I might do 5.10d-11a, 5.11b-c, 5.11d-12a). Then attempt 3-8 climbs with a minimum of 10-15 min rest.
Bouldering (~ 1.5-2 hrs)
Warm-up on 8-10 progressively harder or similar difficulty boulders (e.g., when onsighting V8, I might do one of each of V0-8). Then attempt 3-8 climbs with a minimum of 5-10 min rest.
Endurance Days
Anaerobic + Aerobic Day (~ 1.5-2 hrs)
Note: This workout is 3-8 sets of going up a medium-difficulty climb, then down an easy climb.
Warm-up on two progressively harder climbs (e.g., when climbing up 5.12b down 5.10a, I might do 5.10d-11a, 5.11b-c). Then do 3-8 sets of roughly the same difficulty with a minimum of 10-15 min rest.
Anaerobic Day (~ 1.5-2 hrs)
Note: This workout is 3-8 sets of going up a medium-hard climb.
Warm-up on two progressively harder climbs (e.g., when climbing 5.12c, I might do 5.10d-11a, 5.11b-c). Then do 3-8 sets of roughly the same difficulty with a minimum of 10-15 min rest.
Aerobic Day (~ 1.5-2 hrs)
Note: This workout is 3-8 sets of going up, down, and up an easy climb (e.g., I might do 5.10c-11b).
Do 3-8 sets of roughly the same difficulty with a minimum of 5-10 min rest.
ARC-ing (i.e., Rest) Day (~ 45 min - 3 hrs)
Find a good traversing/15° max overhanging wall, then do three sets of 10-40 minutes of continuous climbing (only allowed to rest on the wall) with a minimum of 5-20 min rest.